![]() ![]() Vuescan to invert my negative into positive. Capture One Pro even out my black and white points. ![]() I have been using 4 programs to process one shot. The hardest part is to figure out the tone curves or at least trying to match the film curves you are supposed to duplicate but you don't really know what it is. Unfortunately, my resolution only tops out around 4600 pixels both short and long ends. Yeah, I am digging this.although a bit more involved. Ran through it with DSLR 6 frames bracketing. It was shot in Tmax 400 and developed in Rodinal. This shot was originally taken 2 years ago, with my Mamiya c330, 65mm lens. I won't scan this way with color negs because of the lack of ICE. That's my backup equipment if my scanner ever betrays me. I used to use my NEX-6 to scan my B&W negs and it did a pretty good job. I just use some high quality 3m masking tape to tape all 4 sides of the film strip. I think the key part to get good sharpness is the lens and how flat you can get the negative to lay flat on the glass. ![]() Just makes sure the frame borders are aligning with the edge of the viewfinder or in the Liveview. Is not that hard to align the negative with the DSLR sensor focal plane. ![]() Later in the week I have to shoot some roll and to see if I could get consistent result with this DSLR scan thing.:) I may not go too elaborated on it. I can see something like this now with a crippled DSLR attached. Vracing edited this topic 109 months ago.įunny thing is that in the olden days I had this huge copy stand with a crippled Nikon sitting on it that was nothing but a copier that we used Eastman film in to make slide and negative copies. Originally posted at 8:23PM, 4 November 2014 PDT In some cases, I needed to correct the slightly over cyan tone. The same tiff file would get exported to CS5 again for the final level, curves, and contrast adjustments. So, I uploaded the tiff file to VueScan and to use VueScan to invert the tiff. The inversion is probably the most difficult part. Two, I have to capture 2 sections for each negative in order to produce both the long and short ends at 4.5k pixels. Unfortunately, to get the proper tonality, I had to do HDR conversion in order to produce more DR. I could capture the grains and film scratches. The result.some ridiculous sharp negatives. My Nikon AF D 28-105 is pretty horrible with the corner sharpness. My Tarmon Adaptall 2 35-80 f2.8-3.6 seems to have the best sharpness at the center and the corners. Place the glass in front of my LCD computer monitor with a max brightness and using a CS5 blank document as a white background. Then, put the glass standing up vertically. Use 2 alligator clamps with rubber tips to clamp onto the glass. Tape the film strip onto a 8x10 anti reflective glass. Then, I begin to toy with the idea of using my Nikon D7000 and 2 of my macro lenses to see what kind of scan the setup could produce. They are usually visible when scanning color negatives. Vertical banding lines or streaks begin to show up even on my BW scans. Unfortunately, my trusty Canon 9000f's sensor is showing its age. ![]()
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